Easy peasy but the end result was compromised by:Ī) my lack of experience on ideal shutter speed to get a really smooth end result (bright light + I used an ND, but not a strong enough ND)ī) inability to correct images - oil spots (the curse of many a D600) were in the frame and as the camera wrote directly to a. Only when I was ready did I take the plunge (this was in the realm of 360 degree virtual tour panoramas, which is not as complex as time lapse in terms of post production, but still reasonably complex to get right in camera in order to create a seamless end result)īut hey, I reviewed a D600 last year for a local magazine and the camera had an in camera timelapse option. When I started taking occasional paid assignments I practiced as much as possible beforehand to enable me to present myself as professionally as possible on site (even though it may be for a friend of a friend) and get as good results as possible at the time. Software and workflow are definitely big factors, here.īut I'd like to be confident and have some experience first before going into this. I just happened to already have Blender around. I combined frames using an open source CGI animation tool, Blender, but there are tons of ways to do this. And if you use the TT stuff, not just for the camera, but also for the Android/iOS device that's serving as intervalometer. Both methods worked quite well for the few timelapses I did (ranging from 30 min to 3 hrs).įor a longer timelapse, though, you're going to have to worry about power consumption. With the Panasonic DMC-G3, I used my iPodTouch, the free TriggerTrap Mobile app, and the TT dongle & cable for my camera. Obviously, this won't work for you if you don't have one of the Canon bodies on the ML supported list. With the Canon, I simply used the free Magic Lantern firmware addon, which added a software intervalometer to the camera. I have a Panasonic DMC-G3 and a Canon 50D, and I approached adding an intervalometer two different ways. Doing small short projects gives you more opportunity to adjust. The first thing you have to get a feel for is the timing-how fast the motion runs at, say, a frame per 5s vs. Think of a subject that you can timelapse shoot in less than an hour to start (say, a melting ice cube or clock hands). Don't try and do all-night or all-day timelapses off the bat. I can't remember where I read the advice, but starting with a smaller scope for learning is good.
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